Rose

March 28, 2015

Les Parfums de Rosine Secrets de Rose

L'Esperessence Les Parfums de Rosine Dioressence, Floral Oriental, Francois Robert, Guy Robert, Office Scent, Paul Poiret, Peaceful, Powdery Rose, Rose 0 Comments

Rosine is a French perfume house originally founded in 1911 by de French fashion designer Paul Poiret. Paul Poiret was the first fashion designer to start a perfume house. The perfume house was launched in the same year as his sensational soiree inspired by harems of the sultan, The Thousand and Second Night. It must have been the party of the decade as many refer to this party for its extravagance and lavishness.

Paul Poirets couture was inspired by the orient, Russia and North Africa and his perfumes had names like Aladin and Maharadjah. The perfume house was named after Paul Poiret eldest daughter Rosine who died not much later in 1915 from an ear infection. Paul Poiret served in the First World War but after his return his designs became out of fashion and his fashion house had to close in 1929, leaving Paul Poiret impoverished. Some original Rosine fragrances can now be scented at the ‘perfume library’, the Osmotheque in Versailles.

The current Les Parfums de Rosine Perfume House was founded in 1991. Most of the Rosine perfumes are inspired by the rose theme. Secrets de Rose was introduced in 2009. The inspiration for this perfume came from the rare black rose.

The notes according to the Rosine website are:

Top note : Plum, Liquorice, Rose essence, Bitter Orange, Saffron

Heart note : Magnolia, Ylang ylang, Rose absolute, White Jasmine, Seeds of cumin

Base note : Sandalwood, Himalaya oak moss, Amber resin, Labdanum, MuskPerfumer: Francois Robert

Secrets de Rose is a very well blended powdery rose. It is natural but at the same time stylish and with a little spicy punch, not a natural light fresh English tea rose but more a modern classic rose. Although some websites refer to Secret de Rose as seducing I do not find it to be tempting at all. More a stylish velvet uncomplicated rose, very well suited for office wear. The powder note in Secrets de Rose reminds me of Kirsten Dunst in the movie Marie Antoinette.

What does it do ? And how does it make you feel ?

It eases and makes you feel more peaceful. Perfect for work or when you feel a bit stressed. But it keeps you sharp and focused.

It makes you feel like the picture made by Rene Gruau for Dioressence. The picture suits Secrets de Rose more than it does vintage Dioressence. If there is one perfume I would call seducing it would be the vintage animalic Dioressence made by the father of the perfumer of Secrets de Rose Guy Robert.

Although I am fond of rose perfumes I find it hard to find a rose perfume I really like. Secrets de Rose is one of my favourites at this moment and it was instant love. Many perfume bloggers are writing about rose perfume at this moment. Secrets de Rose has not gotten much attention lately. When it was introduced in 2009 it got some very positive reviews though. If you like rose and want a perfume with a little twist, Secrets de Rose is worth a try.

Try it if you like: Yves Rocher Rose Absolue, People of the Labyrinths A.Maze

Longevity: medium, up to 4,5 hours

Sillage: moderate, stays quite close to your skin

Fragrance family (via Fragrances of the World): Floral Oriental

All fragrances mentioned in this article are my own acquisition.

Originally published: February 24, 2014

Updated: March 28, 2015

Pictures:

Picture 1: Paul Poiret 1920 Theatre Costumes ”Paris qui Jazz” Revue, José de Zamora Designer

Picture 2: Kirsten Dunst in Marie Antoinette

Picture 3: Rene Gruau for Dior

November 25, 2014

Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre

L'Esperessence Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre, Nahema, Parfum Sacre, Rich Floral, Rose, Spicy 0 Comments

Some perfumes should come with a warning as in a Thai restaurant saying how spicy it is. If perfumes would come with 1, 2 or 3 peppers, referring to its spicyness, the eau de parfum Cinabre would have 3 peppers.

Cinabre is a spicy rose perfume made by Maria Candida Gentile in 2009. The combination of the rose with the black pepper in the beginning makes it very daring. It gives the perfume a bite. This perfume is not a light tea rose but a strong powdery spicy hot rose. While wearing Cinabre, I feel daring and courageous. One would not think a rose perfume could do this.

Maria Candida Gentile is a female independent Italian perfumer with her own perfume house. She has developed 6 classic perfumes and 4 exclusive perfumes for her own line. All her perfumes are available online.

I have been wearing Cinabre for some days now and am struck by its beauty and originality. The bottle and perfume might look and smell very classic. But the perfume has a very modern touch to it. Like a Burberry trench coat classic but modern at the same time.

At first I got a very powdery rose scent mixed with black pepper. After 15 to 20 minutes the pepper subdued and the scent became a light rose powdery perfume like smelling an expensive rose powdery soap. The soap scent subdues into a more creamy soft sweet rose after more or less an hour.

Notes according to the Maria Candida Gentile website are: black pepper, ginger, rose baies, Splendens rose, Moroccan Rose, benzoin, opoponax and vanilla. The perfume group is rich floral according to Michael Edwards.

The spicyness in this rose perfume brought to mind the image of being dressed completely in black and adding a very red bright scarf or wearing no makeup and adding red lipstick. Your complete image changes completely.

According the official website of Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre means dragon blood, a crimson red resin from the Dragon Blood tree. Dragon blood was used for alchemy, health cure, for violins in the 18^th century and used as lipstick. The dragon blood tree is quite rare nowadays and grows primarily on an exotic island, Socotra in the Indian Ocean and is part of Yemen. The label of the very classic Cinabre perfume bottle is crimson red. Beautiful. For rose lovers, this eau de parfum is a must try. If you like Guerlain Nahema or Caron Parfum Sacre, give Cinabre a try. You could see Cinabre as a very distant little foreign niece of Nahema.

Coco Chanel said that women should not smell like roses but I think that even Coco would not mind to this modern interpretation of a rose perfume.

Origin of bottle my own

1. Photograph made by Pierre Javelle and Akiko Ida (Miniam Food Creative)

2. Picture was made by Rene Gruau

3. Painting made by Henriette Hackenberg, www.henriette-hackenberg.nl A card from this painting is available on her website as well.

Originally published Octobre 2012

Updated and re edited: November 25th, 2014

The Maria Candida Gentile Collection consists now of: the collection Flight of the Bumblebee with three fragrances which was introduced in 2014, 8 eau de parfum the latest being Noir Tropical, 4 pure perfumes and 2 home fragrances.