Huitième Art Parfums Poudre de Riz

Portrait of Guus Preitinger wife of Kees van Dongen, Kees van Dongen 1910, van Gogh Museum Amsterdam

Portrait of Guus Preitinger wife of Kees van Dongen, Kees van Dongen 1910, van Gogh Museum Amsterdam

What first that comes to mind when scenting Poudre de Riz is dulce de leche, condensed milk turned into a kind of caramel, very sweet and  popular in South America. Poudre de Riz has some sweet notes which remind me of almond as well. For me it is hard to distinguish the separate top and middle notes as they are very well blended.

More important is the feeling it gives: lush, overwelmingly sweet, luxurious, and warm. The drydown is surprisingly warm and resinous probably due to the benzoin. In some seconds I felt like the lady above on the painting.

Poudre de Riz would suit a lady wearing a fur stola in the concert hall leaving a trail of her perfume when she leaves the foyer/lobby. A concert hall like the Concert Gebouw in Amsterdam with red carpets and velvet chairs. She would have had to spray a lot of perfume as Poudre de Riz stays quite close to the skin. But it is a perfume with a modern twist to it. The modern twist being the monoi and slight but very well blended coconut. The Concert Gebouw in Amsterdam has a new wing build next to the building as well, its modern twist.

Poudre de Riz was inspired by a phrase in the novel The inferno (1908) by Henri Barbusse, “The air in the closed room was heavy with a mixture of odours, soap, face powder, the pungeant scent of cologne.” When reading this sentence one would think a suffocating heavy powdery perfume was created. This is not the case. Poudre de Riz does not remind me of soap or the pungeant scent of cologne at all. Sometimes it is better not to know anything about the inspiration for a perfume and just scent it, like it is.

Poudre de Riz, Henri de Toulouse - Lautrec 1887, Van Gogh Museum Amsterdam

Poudre de Riz, Henri de Toulouse – Lautrec 1887, Van Gogh Museum Amsterdam

Notes according to luckyscent: damask rose, tiare absolute, coconut, vanilla, rice powder accord (caramelic, burnt toast and maple notes), sandalwood, iris, cedar, tonka bean, tolu balsam and benzoin resin.

Poudre de Riz was created by French perfumer Pierre Guillaume for Huitième Art Parfums. Huitième Art Parfums was founded in 2010 for the 8th anniversary of the perfume house Parfumerie Generale. The name Huitième Art means eighth art. According to perfume critic Octafian Coifan perfume is the eight art next to painting, music, architecture, dance, poetry, sculpture and architecture.

Poudre de Riz means rice powder and was used by women as make up powder like the red box on the painting, to whiten ones face. I came across a painting in the Van Gogh Museum named Poudre de Riz, the woman on the painting is the opposite to the lady in the first painting and the feeling it evokes. The lady on the second painting is probably Suzanna Valadon, mistress to Henri de Toulouse- Lautrec. She does not look not luxurious, lush, warm or sweet no surprise if she really was the mistress of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.

Poudre de Riz is not a very original perfume, but very well blended and nice to wear for example for Christmas or coming Autumn. But not a scent I would buy, quite frankly, as it is a bit too sweet for my taste. But if you like your perfumes quite sweet, give it a try !

Do you like sweet fragrances ? If so, which are your favorites ? If not, which are really too sweet for you ?

Perfume family: floral oriental with gourmand influences

First published November 1, 2012

Re edited September 17,  2015

How to prolong your summer with perfume

Photograph: Esperessence Sail 2015 in Amsterdam

Photograph by Esperessence Summer 2015 Amsterdam

Fragrance  can help you get through a clouded rainy autumnlike  day by inviting summer in and adding a holiday feeling to your day.

  1. You can use a fragrance you would normally use on a warm summer day, for example a more calming tropical floral perfume
  2. Use an uplifting stimulating scent, a cologne or cologne style fragrance
  3. Wear a fragrance which makes you feel like you are on an actual beach

Tropical floral perfumes can contain the tropical tiare flower, frangipane or ylang ylang. Or they might not actually contain tropical flowers but give the impression that they do. According to Jennifer Peace Rhind the scent of frangipane is said to impart inner peace, release tension and bring comfort. Research demonstrated that ylang ylang increases calmness. Examples of perfumes which contain tropical flowers are Ormonde Jayne Frangipane and Guerlain Le Terracotta. Nicolai Juste un Reve evokes containing tropical flowers.

Uplifting fragrances can be a fresh eau de cologne or a fragrance from the citrus family containing for example lemon, bergamot or bitter orange. Eau de cologne or eau de cologne type fragrances are my favorite refreshing Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur or Hermes Eau d’Orange Verte.

Drawing by Rene Gruau

Drawing by Rene Gruau

Another option is a fragrance which makes you feel like you are on an actual beach. Like 4160 Tuesdays Sunshine and Pancakes. With its  sweet citrus stimulating opening Sunshine and Pancakes was meant to evoke a British summer beach day in the seventies according to Luckyscent. I find it to be one of the most stimulating and uplifting fragrances I know. Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess is another fragrance which makes you feel like you are on a beach the moment you spray it with its sun tan like coconut scent.

To help you prolong your summer feeling you can use a tropical floral, a citrus/cologne type fragrance or a perfume which evokes the feeling of a  beach. This can be opposite to what you might wear normally on a rainy more autumn like day but I find it works to add an uplifting or very calming feeling to a day depending on my needs at that moment.

Do you use fragrance contrary to weather or season ? If so, tell us about it !

Disclosure: all fragrances mentioned are my own acquisition either full bottles or samples

Yosh Sottile Stunningly Beautiful

Photograph by Esperessence

Photograph by Esperessence

Today I scented my second perfume of the American perfumer Yosh Han, Sottile. Its name means subtle in Italian. Again I was amazed by her perfume. Its natural beauty and pure elegance is stunning. It felt like putting on a white transparent light shawl while wearing a beautiful white long dress, simple but very elegant.

Sottile is very light and almost ethereal, as a perfume the Italian perfumer Olivia Giacobetti could have made. Within an hour Sottile has evolved into a (green) white flower natural light perfume which stays very close to the skin. The way a natural tea rose could scent.

When I look in my own perfume collection this is the opposite of a perfume made by the French perfumer Maurice Roucel for Guerlain; Insolence eau de parfum. While Insolence is big, very present having tremendous sillage, Sottile is light, elegant, sensitive and graceful.

If the name had not already been taken by Philosophy it could have been called Inner Grace or Pure Grace. As Yosh perfumes work on a deeper energetic level not only scenting you, it connected me to my inner grace and sensitivity.

This review could be of two words: stunning and beautiful. Like the natural elegance and grace of a flower.

Notes: tea rose and lily of the valley

More information on http://www.eaudeyosh.com

First published: September 2012

Re edited: September 5, 2015